Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 92
Notes : Well well well- clear and clean. I watched for a long time – mostly cause I had the time. It was that right by the creek. It held up it looked nice. T2 was already out there working it. For the first 1/2 hour it didn’t work – or rather i couldn’t make it work. But after one half hour i found my groove. i was in it. At one point I took a magical glassy lump for a long fast ride-the ride was over -right? No- it sort of closed out on me and i managed to work around a section and then BOOM- a whole nother piece of glass appeared- where the fuck did that come from?? I couldn’t figure it out – the wave had morphed somehow into an entirely different wave. I shot up to the top off the cascading whitewater right to the lip- and then headed down another glassy section. i dismounted and thought – was that a dream. 23 wave session. – the same right from yesterday. The last possible right before you can do before you hit boatdox.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions