C & LM

Location : C & LM
Time/Length : AM/.40
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Hoofed all the way down to Capitola but it was Gigante. Mavericks was on and the whole coast was firing. Went to Cowells – it was doable. However tide was rising and I became afeared I might get caught inside. I truly wavered and thought “I should do this” . In the end I decided not to- I adjusted my pink tu-tu and slunk back into the car for SF. I stopped at Linda on the way back. In the B lot was a lot of folk about to go in- it still looks too big- so I was cajoled to give it a try. Boat dox had a lull where you could power out without getting pounded. Went to the car and WHAMO- forgot my wetsuit. I donned the 3/2 spring shorty and hit the action. It was too big out there. I pushed off on a giant- made the drop and hit a nice right section. One more I thought. Some time later caught a rather okay inside wave – then thought – 40 minutes – enough is enough – the madness must stop
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=13475