Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Barely 3. It was fairly clean but getting to be high tide. The early crew were getting out- Crespi was the place. However, I noticed a right staying open between the A lot pump house and Taco Bell. No one really on it- so I gambled and paddled out to that spot. Glad I did. Grabbed some chunky little rights – was surfing very well so it was a grand time. An hour later and the tide had gotten too high. The spot had kind of one away- only Crespi was working. A outside left was still coming through where I was so I waited for it to appear. (I missed an earlier one and got pulverized -lipped. I waited for a half hour almost. Finally it came i took off too late but recovered and made a decent go of the reform. Seth over.
Stats/Video : ttp://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=14266
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions