O

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Fell back in love w/cowells today. High surf advisory for the entire coast. WhenI looked at the Capitola cam it looks like a very low tide and doable so I headed down. However, when I got to Capitola and watched and waited I got scared. Every 10 minutes massive hollow bombs shattered the lineup. Between sets it seemed do able but then every 10 minutes those bombs came and i was having none of it. Plus only 5 people in the lineup – 3 really good short boarders and twp people on longboards way out of there league. Drove up to Cowells. It was large and breaking all around- but the extreme low tide made it seem very inviting – you could almost walk out. Truth be told once out there you really needed to paddle far outside and get into the “slot”. They were bombs -kinda frightening. Plus lots of flotsam and jetsam in the water from the storms. I got some reforms which were good. I “slotted” into only one bomb – a steep drop that then folded into a wedge /slope. The drop was great then pull up to the lip then almost immediately you had to cut back and surf into the whitewater … cool wave
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=15787