Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.45
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : WOW. Clean and glassy- sunny and windless. Broad breaking rights breaking on the outside at Taco Bell. Sloping faces that went hollow on the inside. Has one spectacular ride where after a nice take off and clean wedge the wave hollowed out- it was literally breaking on my back for what seemed like a long time-I raced trying to beat the section not sure if I would be pitched off by the lip. But I made the section and another clean face offered itself up. Lots of nice rides like that… also lots of dodgeball and near misses with people sitting exactly in the impact zone. Had to abort a number of sweet rides b/c afeared I would crsh land on top of some soft top lolling on the inside. All rides were under 200 yards but fast and thrilling.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=16054
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions