Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes : Big, clean and offshore. A battle to get into the wave. Surfing poorly. Found myself paddling after a wave then getting blown off it by the offshore. On another wave I realized I should not have paddled for it a little too late. I jumped off the board a literally did a free fall at the arc of the – in the air falling face up as the wave came down on me. I think it was my first “free fall”. Spooked I went further down south. Caught a big sloping giant and called it a day
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=16390.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions