Location : O
Time/Length : AM/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : Ellem Heyman Green Psych
Notes : Expected nothing. Got to Matunuch parking lot a saw about 4 people in the lineup. 4 people watching. It was small but glassy -little micro peaks pushing through. I waxed up on the beach. A guy came over because he recognized Ellen’s board but not me. i guess he assumed i robbed the heymans and was now flagrantly riding the stolen board a mere 10 minutes from the theft. I told him i was an inlay od the heymans and new gina, ellen and andrew. convinced i was not a meth addicted freak. he then subtly dropped the rock he was holding behind his back. the rocks were quite painful. it was very nice mesh- some clean little rights coming through. surfed with a very nice indian psychologist. at the end of the sesh two pretty good hipster longboard guys came in – everyone very friendly. later had the singles tennis match w/mikel and that night maeves birthday …
Stats/Video : no
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions