Location : 38th
Time/Length : AM/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Second peak was to big. Sat on the outside and waited and waited. At one point a outside set wave came- I was in position with one other guy. I had priority. He also could of gotten it on a turn and burn but as he saw me paddling he said “you got it” more like – I won’t take it but you better not blow it. I said “yea” and on the pop up said “thanks” then I was off to the races. Straight down the line -like a freight train- riding it high. Best wave of the sesh 220 plus yards. Jack o’nell died the day before and all sesh sat and watched family and friends enter his house and pay respects. From the 38th line up you could actually see all the people in his big main floor living room because it is basically one giant plate of glass…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=84827
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions