Month: February 2018

NINJURY

Location : NINJURY
Time/Length :
Rating :
Performance :
Board :
Notes : Is it the hip? Hard to tell. Upper left thigh is where the pain is – outside. Hip means pain in groin so could maybe just be a muscle tear. Also its just the left leg first foot forward on pop up for regular foot like me…
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : Am/.50
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 94 al
Notes : Lumpy and dumpy – plus surfed poorly. Also feels now like my hip is all sore. But it was sunny and windless
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : Am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : *+
Board : 94 al
Notes : A LOT MIDDLES. Clean sunny and the left had a servicable shoulder except i just couldnt make the scene- always just out of position. Did manage a few racy rights where i sped down the line a piece before it closed out
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : Am/ 2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : Repeat of sat – but softer – still got some open corners amongst the weekend warriors
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : Am/1.15
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 94 al
Notes : Twerent bad. Crüe went to the peak north of the A LOT PH. Since that peak was crowded with good sirfers i went to the smaller peakexactly in between the A lot PH and TACO BELL. I amnow OFFICIALLY NAMING THIS SPOT. Henceforth it shall be called by all yee serfers: A LOT MIDDLES. So there.
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : Am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : Clean and glassy – clear skies. Fireman tim got a right i could nt believe Perfectly groomed chest high right – by the creek nestled in the curl -almost barreling- me I couldnt connect like i wanted – was always positioned a little wrong or selected poorly – still got some stuff – best day of the week so far…
Stats/Video :