Location : O
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : sunset. right at highway 1 – right after santa monica. pr as gina calls it skid row. we decided to go in because as we were looking over the bluff a super sweet set caame in with only one guy out. we suited up and made our way down the vomit stained needle strewn rocks and paddled towards the rising sun. alas high tide worked against us- it was very likely the last set that arrived that suckered us in. just gott swamped out with nothing breaking. . we paddled further south to the beach break and it was there that we were able to get some rides that redeemed the session- just high tide shorbreak – but enough to evoke the stoke. we exited all the way south and had to walk a ways along highway one to get back to the sube. every last parked car we passed had people living in the vehicle.it was like walking by peoples bedrooms as they awoke for the day. harsh and i felt a harbringer of how things will be getting. back at the car we had a crazy lady with a poodle tells us about lizards. then a tiny squirrel that literally barked/howled like an urban rat/wolf. then the huy doing his samuel l jackson impersonation in the sperts car behind us. Also/BTW out in the water we were visited by a pod of dolphins.the papa dolphs fin was super beat up- jeagged and cut up- also looked very dirty – somewhat glassy eyed as well – we called it Methy-The Hollywood City Dolphin. That night another great meal- mikels ribs from nevada – he thought they underperformed but tina and i felt they were perfect.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions