Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : it was lumpy and dumpy at the creek. but outside sets were coming through. I got two very nice waves which made the sash a three. however I was never out FAR enough to catch the overhead el bombs that came through ( twice in an hour and a half) I always felt – now I am out far enough – but it was never far enough – I scratched over them but was not in a position to make them- behind me – bioth times- it wiped the lineup out…. afterwards there was a big hullabaloo because it was the surfing dog CHAMPIONSHIPS. ALL THE SURFING DOG PLAYERS WERE AT THE BEACH. the top dog surfers were aggressively marketing there dogs with tents for the dog and the dogs logo. how many championships they won and their twitter handle and a table where you could buy t shirts of the dog. it was crazy. I have heard of stage moms but this was “surf dog moms” people actually were lining up to have a photo taken with the most famous of the surf dogs – like it was Kelly Slater or something. I guess people gotta do something with there time…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions