Location : O
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : We waited until about mid day for the tide to clear then headed to privates. good choice considering everywhere else was jacked up with peeps. Gina surfed the inside and I headed way outside and waited and waited. Then I waited while G got inider after insider. Finally my ticket showed up – head high smooth and glassy I got right up in it and it was a great ride. A whole giant section was opening up when I got to the inside when I spied a GIANT tangle of KELP in front of me. I thought because of my speed I could kind of bump pop and skirt my way up OVER and thru it. NOT TO BE. One thick vine grabbed the nose of the board and the whole patch swamped me and I went ASS over heels in front of the board. RIDE OVER. I spent the rest of the set back outside hoping for a repeat performance but Nada. Should have stayed inside. Right at the end of the session however another ride came my way – not as big but a sweet ride.2 hours and 2 rides – well worth it. That night we made the steaks on the barbie – with a killer mushroom dish and purple beans … plus azerbijan cookies a la mode…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions