Day: December 7, 2018

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : LOOKS CAN BE DECEIVING IN SURF EPISODE 1,284,579: Coming over the hill you could see long dark cordoroy lines in the ocean. massive. too big maybe? straight to boatdox. The north end was just nuclear 15 foot bombs. the point looked like Mavericks. But the dox- like a little midwest lake on a windless day. it seemed like the sets were coming in with more fory and frequency right about to taco bell – but not going off further south. I waited for a set and when it came in it looked manegable – with open corners.  people were saying – im going to taco bell because waves are rolling in more. Fools. I paddled out at the dox. super lull – dry hair in the lineup. anyway – in very short order it JACKED WAY THE FUCK UP. i could never really position myself for AN EL BOMBO. plus the tide was getting super high. i managed one okay left  and then everything went into super lull land. i think it was a half hour wait and then POW – very fast and very furious. over head high coming one after the other- many i just barely scratched over the lip. i wanted out but wasn’t sure how to get back safely to shore without wasing up on the rocks and dinging the board, the waves seemed to be banging up against the windows of the boat dox houses. plus the waves looked MAKEABLE BUT VERY SUDDENLY WENT INTO CLOSEOUT MODE. I aborted on one wave in the nick of time – like looking over the face of a white water cliff. plus way too many people in the water that should not have been. Finally found a manageable one that had a bit of a nice face – then tomahawk close out behind me- imanaged to stay on my board and ride all THE WAY LEFT IN TO the mouth of the creek avoiding the rocks and getting the fuck out -along with Tr. – we both thought “too dangerous”. gotup to the lot and folks came up and said how was it – too big – they laughed and said what are you talking about – indeed it looked like a little baby lake – calm at bathwater. i just thought – go in for an hour dewd… (ps two CG rescues today at OB — so far)
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