Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ?
Board : 84 al
Notes : Again clear and sunny at dawn, windless , clean. A lot some dumpy and lumpy action. Again nothing but frustration – nothing but paddle and muss. also a surprising number of waves where I went OVER THE FALLS. why? that almost never happens to me, was I misjudging the wave or not nailing a steepish corner take off. maybe its all the boards fault? Finally half way through the sesh something came through – shoulder high or so- straight down the line making speed and distance. Far away i could see a kook blindly lining up and I screamed as he was paddling – the second scream he heard and aborted just in time. A great ride – a different kind of surfing – I feel I’m USING more of my body – my arms feel much more a part of the game and my upped body – not just the feet. rest of sesh =nada.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions