Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 84 al
Notes : Clear , slight chop- bif ole chunky wedges at the dox- alot of close outs – paddling and then aborting at the last minute because you stare over the abyss into a brutalist tomahwak foamy endgame, bu t managed to get some wedges – I felt I was SLIDING onto the wave for a few … weird
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions