Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 84
Notes : Wow – waves up and down the beach. Glassy when I first got in and nabbed some nice rights that let out right around the beginning of taco bell. The waves kept getting better … and bigger. I performed well on some but blew a number of beautiful waves. at one point I took off on a big sloping wall knowing it was gonna close out but also knowing it was going to reform into a very nice section. I couldn’t keep up with the board – it just went too fast and I caterwalled down most of the face. lots of paddling…
Stats/Video :
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions