Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 84
Notes : Overcast , chop in the water- weird cross off shore. Action again was near Volleyballs. Funny how from the parking lot it looked so mush nothing. Out there however it was LEFT city. And only the LEFT. That is where the wave peaked and jacked up. You had to be right on it or no ride. Some were big. I surfed really well. Seems like this was the kind of wave I got the new board for- steepish and folding over quick. at one point – for about a 20 minute stretch it was me and T trading off on the setwaves. While I was paddling out he would zoom off. Then when he was paddling beck out I would take off and he would let out a “whoop”. Great sesh…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions