LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Hot damn that was good. Glassy, clear skies, windless. Two distinct peaks. A smaller one at middles. Then another bigger one slightly North of the A lot pumphouse. That is the peak I decided on around 7:10 AM. Outside wide breaking rollers were coming in – waited for about 15 minutes then an outside wave came right into my orbit – a glorious wave – a left – perched right on the nose. The action settled down and focused more on the inside – but still lost count of the waves I got – with tim C and C.
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