Day: June 11, 2019

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : My god – buttin up against a 4 star exceptional. The only reason I am not going with the 4 is it was small. Just a tad bit bigger-and it would have won the 4 star. Nevertheless – amazing well groomed little nuggets. Again there was a small little peak at “middles” where alot of people were – and then a peak right in front of the A lot which was lull-i-er but had more size and punch. That was what I chose. Windless. Clear skies. Glass. MS paddled out and we traded wave back and forth. Then Gregg C and his wife joined us. I surfed well – it was just a small right zipper – a long enough ride where you could jump on the nose – take it down the line and it was over. A pod of dolphins passed us by – close enough to touch. I surfed straight into a shore  fishermans line- he was yelling at me “hey you – hey you”. I untangled myself careful to avoid the hook. MS said “this is like a dream – its like September.” GS said to me later in the lot “Wow – June Swoon.” Stoked.
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