J

Location : J
Time/Length : am/1.o
Rating : ****
Performance : *
Board : 94
Notes : In the Mar B lot it was slightly onshore mush. Fire T was suiting up and I was on the fence. Then F pulls up and says”you gotta check out the jetty its really working”. so I went. Indeed there were waves. Peaks breaking right at the jetty wall. As I paddled out a GIANT set appeared. In the water it seemed 10+ – fortunately I was still close in and didn’t get hammered – but I balked at going to the peak. Too big. Sometimes a set would come in and i thought – “wow that’s doable” – and I would start to paddle over to the peak  and an el bombo would appear looming in the horizon and I would chicken out. I stayed inside which was not that great. It was either the epic peak or nothing. As far as CONSEQUENTIAL waves they were some of the best I’ve seen in a while. a guy on a performance long board was doing them justice – the rest were short boardes. If I was with someone I may have paddled over…
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