Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Clear windless and sunny. Every inch of the mar was covered. More or less something makeable from the N end to the dox. Caught TC coming out who advised the creek – not as long as the right at Piandas or the left at dox but less people. He was right. I managed some nice little chunks. My last wave this green WEDGE kind of just rolled towards me like a blobby jelly fish – a real freak wave so I took it. what a ride – it really stood up and refused to fold over gliding across this lippy freak wave – right up near the nose- great wave
Stats/Video :
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions