Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****+
Board : 94
Notes : Clear windless and clean. however at the creek it was LUMPY DUMPY AND GRUMPY. waves – yes – but folding over haphazardly – sectioning out – no clear peak – but as soon as I got out I happened into two waves- both were rights – clean wedges – rights beauties- from then on it was hunt and peck- about an hour later I hooked into a right that I have no idea how I maintained it into a sweet ride. it was a big wedge and I was TOO deep – but went for it anyway- I immediately thought BIG MISTAKE – gonna hit some soft top jockey on the inside. but somehow I managed a SEVERE right and up to the nose INSIDE the CURL of the wave. basically blasted through the whitewater to OPEN FACE and a sweet ride. I still have no idea how I managed the maneuver …
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions