Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***+
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : Started off by TB again and straight off got a nice little right. But then that peak sort of shut down – or I couldn’t connect anymore. paddled North to the other peak. Crowded. Plus it had JACKED up. Big sloping wide ass FAT waves- clean up waves that I barely scratched over-BUT SOME OF THEM were pretty wow drops with a big Gian t wide face.dangerous with all the folk. I couldn’t connect. I grabbed two monsters but the BLEW them mid ride- fumbled and fell like a kook – with open face glory staring at me down the line – cut my losses and got out
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions