Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : cold and grey. super low tide. looked like a moonscape with all the exposed rocks. there was mushy unformed slop up and down the beach. however right in front of the creek I noticed a long boarder really tucking into some micro corners and getting some nice action. I was jelly. could I do that with these waves? suited up and paddled near him. it was a pretty good sesh – I whipped into the mush and made corners. then it started to improve. my nemesis entered – BB but he was clearly going left and I was sticking to the rights – so we avoided any chance of interaction
Stats/Video :
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions