Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clear blue skies and giant surf. massive closeouts on the north end. breaking big at the dox without much time to scoot out in between sets. most concerning it was crowded as all hell. didn’t want to paddle out by the creek because I didn’t want to be caught with kooks heading straight for me. I decided to go all the way to the dox – hugging the coast and then paddling like hell between the sets. it was the right thing to do. once out I paddled over to the last pod of the dox – sitting outside waiting for the last swing around wave. I managed a great one – it reformed and I had an even better right. I got out and walked back to the end of the dox and went back out to the line up in the same way. I waited again and got a massive left- I almost aborted- people scrambling up the wave as I was coming down. I held on even after the wave crashed around me and managed another foamy right on the reform. that was it. too big with too many kooks – I called it a sesh
Stats/Video :