Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : clear and clean. north to south looked small and dumpy. then a perfect shoulder high SURFER magazine set came in at dox. 3 waves in the set – each more well groomed than the previous . no one in the lineup. by the time I got out two folk were on it. everything went my way. I was in the right place at the right time- even for the set wave. they held up and I surfed with poise. one set wave was just all face picture perfect heading down the line pulling off an “Ian Curtis” and a hood ornament. by the time I got out seemed the whole beach north to south was jacked up and working…
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