Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : ***
Performance : *+
Board : 95
Notes : Big and gnarly. first swell of the fall season. north end ws giant white wash closeout masters. I almost wasn’t gonna go in. I watched for a full half hour at boat dox. finally mustered the courage to paddle out. there were big wedges- swelling heaps of crumbling water- sometimes an outside 2 wave set would appear that you had to scratch over. unfortunately I was off my game for some reason- mostly due to bad positioning and bad wave selection- oh well – there was some rides I got…
Stats/Video :
Skip to content
Daily Journal On Surf Conditions