Day: October 23, 2020

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Well that was something else. Best dox session of the Fall. It was not AS big as yesterday – but there was still some damn sizable shit pushing through. Also not messy and choppy- relatively glassy – a hint of surface chop. Light offshore breeze. Clear skies. I sat way outside- usual position which is outside and slightly North of the main dox pod. hoping for the set wave that would swing wide. I got a number of them. One monster came at me and I was in perfect position. All I could see in front of me was about 10 surfers madly paddling toward me trying to scratch over the top as I popped up and drew my line. Later Ch said – “man that was a screamer.” Around a half hour went by and I was in the same position and the same thing happened – the board rattled as I skirted down the face. Paddling back out I watched a guy on a mid length get an inside right that was a foamy epic. As I passed him I said “nice ride” He said “Me? you just had an outside screamer.” Two screamers in one session – I’ll take it…
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