Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Giant macking boat dox and creek. up north it was heavy. not even sure how I was going to get out. super high tide – water coming up to the rocks at dox. I sort of waited for a lull – hugging the coast at dox then paddled like hell. made a dry hair paddle out. I hung around the dox but it was way too crowded. Plus there was super glare from the sun so you couldn’t see in front of you. you had to take the big set wave because everything smaller would just warble and not break. I decided to give up on dox and paddled over to the right because it seemed like there were less soft top jockeys lallygagging in the impact zone. A pretty big right came my way and I was ideally placed- nice heft – spreed one pumping S turn. I took the whitewash in dangerously close and decided to get out – too dangerous. Dry hair session. first time ever.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions