Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Holy shit that was great. It was overcast and a little bit choppy at first but then cleared up very fast – and glassed off. very nice waist to head high dox lefts. (heavier shortboard stuff breaking all the way up to crespi) I surfed well – but not consistently – mid session I had this “kook lull” where I fumbled and flailed. then I straightened up and hit my mark. caught a strange sideways take off head high wave. I was about to turn and burn but didn’t quite get completely turned around. As such I sort of launched into the wave almost completely sideways/parallel to the lip. for a split second I thought “this is gonna end in a painful disaster” but I somehow managed to get to my feet and almost slide – not drop- down the face of the wave. then quickly got to the nose for a long ride with a clean shimmering face. As I got out I noticed old OLB coming down the beach- thank god I was getting out. I pitied those still in the water…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions