Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear with slight surface chop. Knee to waist + offerings at the dox. C in on the action doing his thing. Also a guy that has built his own giant hollow “hull wooden surfboard” old school like from 1918 or so. it was like a surfboard canoe – amazing how he was able to get to his feet on it and stabilize it for a ride. anyway – managed a few nose rides that were fun – besides that it was average day at dox with average performance. like that Lou reed song off of “blue mask” – average guy
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions