Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Bot to the B lot early and it was already almost full. started at dox with the sunrise. took a while but managed a beautiful couple of lefts. waist high-ish. the crowd filled in so I decided on the Right- not quite as far over as the Creek. Got a few Zippy little rights – T . A and M in the mix. The Right started getting more and more crowded. I paddled back over to Dox which had thinned out a tad and waited for the outside wave with M and J. they were really nice set waves full faces that stayed open and clean. I managed one from the outside and managed an extreme perch on the nose of the board- the wave seemed to almost cup me in its grip as I stood suspended over the curl…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions