Location : LMB
Time/Length :am/2.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clear blue skies. Clean. Crisp. Relatively windless. Kind of crowded at dox – but not “oh my Jesus crowded.: Knee to waist high with odd one shoulder. Surfed really good especially the first hour and a half. Then I hit a slump – or things dies down. 45 minute wait until I bagged my exit wave. Rare over two hour sesh. At one point I was sitting outside and a set wave came my way- since I was outside a n umber of people screamed my name. But then I missed the damn thing. I paddled back and said I was writing a 50 cent pulp novel:
“He missed the wave of the Winter and became …
SHAME OF THE LINEUP
a taut thriller on the wild lifestyle of the men and women who ride the California breakers.”
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