Month: April 2021

LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length :am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : overcast. choppy as hell. onshore-y. a little pod of folk in front of Taco Bell including one good long boarder who was getting these chopped up close to shore corners. he inspired me to suit up . got a few little corners. but soon everyone got out of the water. just me and another soft board kook. I took one little wedge and scored a corner. finished. it was quite rubbishy conditions…
Stats/Video :

LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Forecast was for onshore rubbish. indeed it was cold -gray- slight onshore and  chopped up surface conditions. but there was a chunky – wedgy – right in front of the Taco Bell and only a couple of people on it. we were all pleased with the offerings. my first 30 minutes were really good – these speedy wide breaking crumbly chunkers. last 20 minutes … meh…
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C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Didn’t really have time to hit the Cap. However, the mar was lookin bleak. onshore. chopped out. I decided to keep going south. It was all glassed out. low tide. breaking on the outside in the knee to shoulder size. kelp mania. I scored any number of “walk the board” to keep this soft little ride going waves. hopped over a number of kelp bombs. in and out – stealth session. was back at capp by 1:30 pm
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Wow. looked like nothing from the lot but there was a very nice right in front of the A lot. overcast. cold. a little chop in the water. but the right was performing. And – not really crowded – A and T and J and T and L and a handful of others. I scored a number of nice rights- got half way to the tip on one with a kind of half assed fake cheater five- great sesh…
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : overcast.flat on the south end. mushy up north. there was a right in front of the A lot pump house  and that’s where everyone was gathered. but it was all chopped up- a puzzle piece hodge lodge wave. but once in a while a clean  nice right would roll in with a rather vast open corner. but it was hunt and peck. low tide but one of those tides where it was DEEP right when you get in. then you start paddling and hit the sand bar. you stand up and its basically up to your ankles. the sea was all mixed up – with a heavy swirling current – roiling and chrurning – glad it was shallow. at the end of the sesh I found a sweet magical Right – open shoulder for quite a bit- very nice. earlier a jabrone in a beat up blue epoxy board let it fly into me- it hit the magic dove who let out a pained cry- but her wings were unharmed. I turned to the jabrone and thusly said:

Hark, Yee Drop In Maggot, Hark!

Bellow, and bid our father, the sea king, rise up from the depths,

full- foul in his fury, black waves teeming with salt-foam,

to smother you with pungent slime…
… to choke ye, engorging yer organs till ye turn blue and bloated

with bilge and brine and can scream no more…

only when,he,

crowned in cockle shells with slithering tentacled tail and steaming beard,

takes up his fell, be-finnèd arm –

his coral-tined trident screeches banshee-like in the tempest

and runs you through the gullet,

bursting ye, a bulging bladder no more, but a blasted bloody film now –

a nothing for the Harpies and the souls of dead sailors to peck and claw and feed upon,

only to be lapped up and swallowed by the infinite waters of the dread emperor himself,

forgotten to any man,

to any time,

forgotten to any god or devil,

forgotten even to the sea…

for any stuff or part of You,

even any scantling of your soul,

is You no more,

but is now itself

the sea.

Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clear and sunny. strapping offshore. flat down south. a soft lumpy peak in front pf the a lot pump house. I availed myself well considering the challenged presented with rolling into the lumpy peak and squeezing out a ride…
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