LMC KK

Location : LMC KK
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : The Kahuna. Drew M in my heat as well as some other movers my size- and ringers from SC. It was bumpy wedgy- and they set up right at the creek drainpipe- on the rocks. I surfed well – getting a wave right as the horn blew for our heat. Then fortunately got out right away – in a bit savored another wave – a left – that opened up – allowing for a good switch stance for a bit and then decent dismount. Then the sets came and with under 5 minutes I just couldn’t punch back out. The horn sounded – two waves only . I thought I was doomed – even though they only score the best two of a max of four. Went down to dox for a free surf and came back to find I had gotten second in the heat. Finals at 5pm. Went back home and we went to farmers market then office. finally drove out with tina at 4. suited up for the last heat – all six of us. I surfed rubbish – but yet still got a sixth place finals trophy. we drove back – still in my wet suit exhausted…
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