Month: August 2022

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Not bad at the creek for the first half hour or so- but didn’t surf great. Then the cross off / on shore started – and the crowd got bigger as the surf got worse…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 magic dove repaired
Notes : Crowded as hell at boat dox – but really well groomed waves – some set waves were perfect – was very cautious so as not to re ding the newly repaired magic dove- managed to score a few winners…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **+
Performance : **
Board : 94 Blue Dove
Notes : Overcast. onshore-y – big ole jumbled up mess- with some nice3 chunky wedges coming through- I got a few – but it was a challenge – paddling to and fro to find the peak…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 blue dove
Notes : Basically flattish – small shore break – yet clean. once in a while a little something would happen outside that was nice – but it was few and far between. When I was de-suiting -it seemed the peak had perked up a bit – with more frequent little glassy bumps happening,,,
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : **+
Board : 94 blue dove
Notes : Really nice very clean peak at the creek- plus baffling – but not many people on it. the B lot was almost empty. glassy Small A frames coming through – but I was off my game – nevertheless the waves were so pristine and plentiful I couldn’t help but get some really nice rides…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 blue dove
Notes : Another really good day. It was bigger so I first headed over to the dox where it was more manageable and less crowded. Managed some very nice lefts – but then paddled over to the right wedge at the creek. It really was much bigger on the sets – and because of the number of people didn’t really get the magic right I wanted – still good sesh…

Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.20
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 94 blue dove
Notes : Holy shit. that was bumping up right against some double fours. Very clean – windless- wedges at the creek. the right had heft and speed – the left was also working. Good riders in the lineup- because of the hollowness – also a lot of short boarders- but the line up was swollen with folk- sealable crowd  that included C and C and J and D and lots of others. very good sesh- wish I had had the magic dove – was hard getting the blue tombstone into the bigger wedges…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 blue dove
Notes : pretty damn good out there. the right wedge at the creek was really happening. hung outside the pod and was able to paddle the tombstone in to quite a few winners…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 Blue Dove
Notes : Pretty damn good peak in front of the creek. didn’t look like much but it kept getting cleaner and better groomed- nice friendly and fun crowd- surfed  well
Stats/Video :

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 Blue Dove
Notes : A little bit more of a wave and got the handle back on the blue dove- managed a coup[le of little mushy nose rides – just surfing a little better. water turned warm while I was away in NYC – 62 degrees!!!
Stats/Video :