Month: October 2022

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Pretty damn good out there at an uncluttered clean knee to waist high boat dox – very slim and mellow crowd- some very nice slow mellow lefts…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : AM/2.25
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : LESS SAID  about this session the better. cloudy jumbled up close outs – crowded as hell. shoulders were out there but I kept coming up blank or aborting on waves that I thought would have a corner but were really cement truck close outs. after 2 hours and 23 minutes – near the creek – I got a nice open right – but I wouldn’t even call it a redemption wave…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clear. Clean. Somewhat biggish. Very crowded – in the red zone really – plus 28 folk at the dox. Sets were big. Also a lot of the surfers were very good- A and J and C and others – in addition to the kooks. I got one really nice left – a hi speed screamer – and yelled off a guy from the wave at the last second. That said on two waves I was a shoulder hopping Johnny – though I felt in one instance I was on the right of wave – curl wise. It started to get walled up – the crowd didn’t let up – so I counted my blessing and ended the sesh.
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Picked up Phoenix and Chris at 7 AM. Had Phoenix booked for a lesson with AS from traveller. I suited up and hit boat dox which was clean and waist high. Then watched Phoenix gets some white water monsters on the Taco Bell shoreline with Chris (and Zsofi via iPhone from Budapest) Great morning!
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Pretty Daman good at ole dox. folk were clustered at the creek peak but dox was clean and knee to shoulder high on the sets – some very nice waves – not much of a crowd either . by the time I got out people had started to paddle over from the creek cause the action was better…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : *
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes :  wow that was an exercise in frustration and futility. paddling to and fro – hunt and peck for a little corner. It was definitely one of those – looks better than it surfs sessions. I saw  some nice corners by the creek but when I got there it seemed to be all close outs. I paddled all the way to the A lot pump house and met with close outs and other surfers rolling their eyes at waves that looked like they might offer up a corner – but then just dumped with brutality. Finally I  managed to get a small inside left that I got real close to the Mose on and rode well. I got out. changing from the lot two great waves with big fat open corners came rolling in – like Neptune was  mocking and thumbing its nose at me…
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : Clear. clean. Nice little peak at the creek. crowded per the norm. Today was all about – pop up – pop up -pop up – or rather my distinct lack of ability to do the same properly all session long. I also mis read waves – too far in for nice  outside rogue set waves – too far in for the inside lefts. I fumbled pop up after pop up and was not really sure why  – still managed a few jerky jerky here and there’s …
Notes :
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : herky jerky onshore victory at sea blustery wedges that had the occasional shoulder
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Overcast and the predicted strong ONSHORE was not really present on the South end – just an occasional gust. But the swell was all churned up and even a little white capp. biggish wedge mounds coming through that broke left than right – grabbed some interesting twisty turny shoulders. surprised at how crowded it still was given the challenging conditions…
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