Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : *
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : wow that was an exercise in frustration and futility. paddling to and fro – hunt and peck for a little corner. It was definitely one of those – looks better than it surfs sessions. I saw some nice corners by the creek but when I got there it seemed to be all close outs. I paddled all the way to the A lot pump house and met with close outs and other surfers rolling their eyes at waves that looked like they might offer up a corner – but then just dumped with brutality. Finally I managed to get a small inside left that I got real close to the Mose on and rode well. I got out. changing from the lot two great waves with big fat open corners came rolling in – like Neptune was mocking and thumbing its nose at me…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions