Month: October 2022

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.40
Rating : ***
Performance : ?
Board : 95
Notes : Overcast. Windless. Went to dox because it was less crowded than the creek peak. At dox I couldn’t get arrested. blew wave after wave. Let good waves pass my by because I thought a better one was behind it only to be disappointed by a flat horizon. Finally paddled over to the creek peak – and still performed far below par. But I stuck with it because there were really good corners to be had. Finally I grabbed a nice racy shoulder high right AND  rode it onto the sand and walked off my board. – A terrible session saved by the final REDEMPTION WAVE…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Overcast. Relatively windless. Chunky. Jumbled up mushy wedges that had open shoulders- it was hunt and peck for the decent size wave that would pop up and offer a speedy little right or left…
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Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Last day in Cap – early AM during high tide. the promised swell had not yet arrived – still some inside here and there’s on the far side of the second jetty- surfed not good at all – managed one decent ride…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/3.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : Another great am at capitol – only four of us in the line up. I stuck and waited outside and was rewarded right away with some 3 great waves in the first half hour. fight broke out on the inside with a middle aged guy and woman (very vocal about being long time locals) screaming at thins guy for taking a wave “out of rotation” . The guy was having none of it and insisted they stop screaming at him – which I found to be reasonable. But they kept screaming at the guy saying how he had no etiquette. Then the guy who was being screamed at went off and called one of the women “b word” which turned the other 3 locals against him and it erupted into another level. I kept way outsise and out of the fray. the whole thing escalated to a ridiculous level- both sides were actually wrong in my opinion and out of bound and being all white priviligy in a capitol kind of village of the damned kind of way…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/3.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : Very nice first day in ole CRAPITOLA. very Lully but nice outside waves coming through. Had one screamer that was over 540 feet – nearly dismounted at BOMBORAS. Crowd not that bad – would have been double 4’s if not for the lull factor. that night made a pot roast which was great…
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Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Looked flat from north to south – but there was a nice little right (and left) all the way up north near the roundhouse. got a couple of real rogue wave screamers that were fun and a surprise considering if you looked from the lot you would be disappointed. You really had to walk all the way up to at least creeps way to get a view of the ridable waves that were coming thru… That afternoon Tina and I took off for FERNIE – Santa Cruz
Stats/Video :

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : my god- 85 5 close outs from the north end to the south end. 15% had makable speedy open thrilling shoulders. getting to that 15 % was the hunt and peck strategy of the morning and I mostly failed at it- became frustrated – finally had one decent right that had some tip time…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Overcast and small. Relatively glassy – slight surface bump. Creek was at it again with about 8 in the pod. had a good first 45 minutes and should have gotten out after my last good wave – but I wanted one last ride- the dreaded LWS -last wave syndrome. it was not happening. it shut down and I couldn’t catch anything except for a tidal wave of kook frustration. it was like I soiled on the good first 45 minutes of stoke…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Onshore. overcast. all jerky jerky chop- however the creek had nice wedges coming thru- unfortunately – kind of crowded – didn’t really like the vibe in the water- but managed some nice wedge-y shoulders here and there…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Another very small glassy day. B lot was basically empty and everybody was walking up North to tiny shore break closeouts. However, I just kept my eye on the creek and – sure enough- a little peak came through – 3 little perfect glassy waves in the set. I decided to suit up – paddled out at the creek with NO ONE IN THE WATER. I managed a few very nice half way decent rides. Then a soft topper came in – and then a pretty good long boarder – whom I exchanged waves with. Turned into a much better session than I imagined it would or could be…
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