Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Big and swamped out with a 6.6 high tide. I had one weird wave where I kind of took off sideways- my feet were planted not forward facing the nose – but both were planted facing the outside rail- it felt like I was kind of gliding sideways down and across the wave – – it was my best wave of the session – a weird awkward WTF just happened kind of ride…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions