Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Big and Wild. The North end was raging. The Creek was raging. Too Big. Rambunctious surf. Almost didn’t suit up. But there was enough lulls that I could paddle out at dox w/out fear of being pummeled. Once out I managed a few very nice lefts. Precisely three nice rides. But then I fell into a slump- I let too many perfectly nice waves pass me by – Still all in all a good session – challenging and slightly nerve wracking…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions