Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wild wooly and swampy. Off to a slow start but I managed to finally get going and snagged some nice ones – especially my last wave were I was pretty far up on the nose. GLARE was a big problem – basically surfing into the sun – blinding you to who was paddling out – that is why AUDIBLES are sometimes so important when paddling back out to the line up on these days “HEY HEY HEY I’M HERE”
Stats/Video :
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions