Month: January 2024

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : So far every day in January has been grey-cloudy-drizzly- windy offshore – sometimes with gusts – cold. Actually: Cold, Damp, dumpy and Grey. And misty. And lumpy. And warbly. Plus the tide has been too hi in the AM’s (5.5 to 9!!) Today it was crowded at the creek. 65% jack hammer close outs. The remaining waves were nice speedy things – with some heft and power- folding over real quick – so if you didn’t get in a set up to hit it down the line – you were tomahawked /pounded – your board flying into a line of soft top kooks. I avoided all that by picking wisely – managed only 2 or 3 speedy rights – fast and thrilling…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : MD 2.0
Notes : Cloudy/misty, offshore – at times gusts-, yet clean. A mess on the North End- but cleaned up South of Taco Bell. I had a killer nose ride within the first 15 minutes- I really held the line-D . paddling back out whooping me on-That ride really made the session. I had a few other meh rides – but nothing that measured up. It just got more and more crowded. I exited right before rock garden – cutting and slicing up my feet again. The erosion is just insane in the span of two years- where once was sand is now but rocks…
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LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Pretty damn good out there at Taco Bell. Very clean , nice crowd – waist to shoulder- Had a really great Right that pretty much made the session- Pure chest high face -was a definite left go right set wave -from outside at Taco Bell-made the morning. Damn the water cold!
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Surfed like a kook. Pathetic. (I hit one decent set wave that I surfed well- feeling good on an elegant dis- mount.) Then it was just a speedy downhill roller coaster into the village of KOOKVILLE. I was almost AMAZED at how poorly I surfed. I said to myself : “I do have this off and on AMAZING talent for surfing poorly.”
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Front heavy dox session – 3 pretty good waves right at the Strat – then the tide filled in and it shut down- warbly nonsense – to much water…
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LTB

Location : LTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Back in the saddle finally. Pretty decent/okaish first session. In front of Taco Bell – a right that stayed open. Surfed pretty okay all things considered
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