Location : LMC 3+/3+
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wow – pretty darn good at the creek. At certain points sets came rolling in like corduroy – was cool to see them stacking up. At first it wasn’t crowded – but then it got pretty busy. The left was the better longer ride – but I stuck to the Right mostly because it offered a relatively clean flight path. They folded over real quick – no soft shoulder take offs allowed. Funny, I took off on one right and for some reason it felt like the curl of the wave was holding me by the ass above the board- I kind of came crashing down onto my deck and then the wave just tomahawked around me – but somehow by the grace of Neptune – I emerged standing in the spray for a knobby little whitewater reform straight into ROCK GARDEN. Some good speeds – 23.6 mph on one wave. Some people were really racing down those lines. If you got in early on these waves you were in for a speedy reward- if you were late to your feet -you were JACKHAMMERED…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions