Month: September 2024

Location : LMC 3+/3+
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Clean and well groomed. Quite a pack on the peak. But it was a swell swell. On some sets it was A Framings – Lefts and rights. Surfed well – particularly on two waves – which judges deemed worthy enough to bump my performance score from a mere *** to ***+…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : *+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Five of us in the pod on the south end for very very soft micro waves. they were clean however. A bump here and there that got the pulse going … should have migrated up North….
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Location : LMC 3+/3+
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wow – pretty darn good at the creek. At certain points sets came rolling in like corduroy – was cool to see them stacking up. At first it wasn’t crowded – but then it got pretty busy. The left was the better longer ride – but I stuck to the Right mostly because it offered a relatively clean flight path. They folded over real quick – no soft shoulder take offs allowed. Funny, I took off on one right and for some reason it felt like the curl of the wave was holding me by the ass above the board- I kind of came crashing down onto my deck and then the wave just tomahawked around me – but somehow by the grace of Neptune – I emerged standing in the spray for a knobby little whitewater reform straight into ROCK GARDEN. Some good speeds – 23.6 mph on one wave. Some people were really racing down those lines. If you got in early on these waves you were in for a speedy reward- if you were late to your feet -you were JACKHAMMERED…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.40
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Jesus Christmas what a crowded shit show. Normally I don’t care about how crowded it gets but the B lot was sold out by 7:15 am – I counted 26 people in the water at the creek. I moved straight to dox where there was less of a crowd but more of a wait. It was clean and mean – with tons of soft top hazards in the water. I finally mustered up the courage to paddle over near the creek to try and seize one of those clean mean right wedges. I had many waves where it was “ABORT” RED ALERT “ABORT” because I knew it was just too much a a chance and TOO many people to avoid down the line- just felt I didn’t have the skills to SLALOM around so many folk. So I was extra cautious – but managed to score some nice ones…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/140
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Opted for the long Lully wait t dox- funny but dawn patrol gives this new statistic which is average weight between waves – this session was 12 minutes and 26 seconds between waves – of which I had a total of eight – and really only one stood out – my fourth wave – 30 seconds board times at a distance of 437 feet and a speed of 16.5. All pretty good given I consider a LM wave board time of 15 seconds decent. Truth be told most actual time on the face of wave is likely 7 to 8 seconds – for a decent ride. Dawn patrol measure from the time you start paddling – s is not a great metric…
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