COWELL / ****/***+

Location : COWELL
Time/Length : AM/2.45
Rating : ****
Performance : ***+
Board : MD 2.0
Notes : Cowells had been going off all week – with inside and outside wave – both long and perfect so I took off early and hit it just as the tide was falling – 1:30 ish. At first, I managed to squeak in some rides – large unruly wide breaking thing a ma jings -but as the tide fell it got more crowded, and I got discombobulated. Unfortunately , I wound up in a no man’s land between the far out breaking wave – almost near indicators and the inside breaking wave- However I didn’t position myself at the take-off spot for either of the waves – so the last 45 minutes was a bit of a bust- I felt like I was just paddling forever to get far enough outside by indicators to be in position for the big outside one – I  just never got in correct position. When I paddled in and climbed back up the steps _ I looked at the inside wave and wondered to myself – why did I even try to paddle out for the outside wave – should have just stayed on the inside…
Stats/Video :