Location : LMC /BCO
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : It was big in my heat. Packed with six. Took me 5 minutes to paddle out – then I planted myself on the outside just waiting – everone stayed on the inside and got waves. I took off on a monster and had a “agony of defeat” fall down the face wipeout. With under two minutes left I scored a really nice right – surfed it really well – but one good wave does not even beat two crappy scoring waves – last place in my heat. Then to dox and had a great session…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions