Month: December 2015

NS

Location : NS
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Notes : yea – totally victory at sea shit- looked 15 foot mess- pouring rain- no thanks
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NS

Location : NS
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Notes : Why did i listen to the weather report of SF????? Frightened away. But reality totally doable from the cam. No 35 mpn wind OR rain. boatdox was probably decent
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : 1.15
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Pretty dang good out there. Almost a 4. Kingish high tide- so a lot of water. but between taco bell and the creek there was a very nice consistent right-grabbed a many right at the peak (no shoulders on this wave) and a lot of face to work with cause of all the water- had to pay attention and not get to far ahead. At one point i took off on a right band couldn’t get high on the wave so made a big bottom turn- i figured thats it I’m not ahead of it so I’m not gonna get any ride of this. Freakishly the wave stayed up when I got out of my bottom turn (which was deep) and I was staring into a clear hollow section- I realized “I’m gonna get barreled” I was so shocked I lost my footing and the board shot out in front of me. Almost. I know now- a barrel is attainable on the south end of LM given the right conditions
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=8692

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Well finally got back in. It was big and heaving. the point was going off like thundering white explosion. Folk were cautious – king tide as well. Made it out by boat dox then paddled over by the creek. Had to be careful on what you picked- folk were demolished in closeout- then the tide was like a churning maelstrom. Challenging. But I snagged some wedges
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=8636.

NS

Location : NS
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Stats/Video : Capitola. Overhead breaking way outside. Biggest I ever saw it. No thanks. Went to Hook. Only 4 people out at high tide. Massive. Went to cowells – too much water. Went to Steamer Lane- it was basically like Mavericks Giant Jabroni’s with big guns charging 15 to 20 footers. Went back to Capitola – it had gotten bigger-40 surfers-mostly short boarders going left. Fun to watch but not for me.

NS

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Notes : still somewhat sickly – so i bagged again. The cam looked very good. Shame. Finnegan would have gone out if he was in my condition and saw the surf. Hell, Finnegan would have gone out in todays conditions if he was strapped to an IV and surfing a door frame. I am a craven surf poltroon.
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