Month: September 2016

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : 1.50
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : it looked like yesterday from the lot- glassy golden california dream – rights and lefts in front of the creek- but once out there they were hard to grab onto. finally i paddled over to taco bell- there a sharp right would come- not soft but sharp steep and barreling – if you got in early at the right spot it wa a real super rocket ride before it closed out-some pretty great rollicking fast rides- so thrilling to get in right at the perfect moment and feel the wave closing out like thunder behind you
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=40982.

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : 1.15
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : button up against a 4. soft sloping knee to shoulder high nuggets coming through in front of the creek – the right and the left were on offer- crystal clear blue skies – no wind- orange sun rising over green mountains in the distance- w/chuck trading off slices of the golden california dream…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=40827.

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***+
Board : 92
Notes : from 815 am to 915 am it was perfect glass right at the creek… no break… wave… paddle back out … wave- they were little power shots 80 to 100 yards – but they were so well groomed – comforting – playful little nuggets – like trying to tame a pony vs a bucking bronco- then the tide came up real real fast- a woman rammed me and we got dangerously tangled in our leashes – she went into panic mode but i kept my cool primarily because we couldn’t be two shrieking ninnies in the lineup- eventually i got us untangled she paddled away w/out a sorry or a thank you. all in all the first hour was just magic
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=40396

Lm

Location : Lm
Time/Length : Am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Bit of a revelation. Looked like choppy crap from the lot- paddled over to volleyballs the left was the only thing that had an open corner and most folk were crowded around it… I managed to squeeze out some real fucking gems … Like puzzle pieces TRIPPY SESSION
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : 1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : very sifts lines. was at taco bell but it was just not happening – paddled over to a lot pump house and it was much better- very mellow – little push- but clean and my last wave was a knee high glass killer- trace says it was only 94 yards which surprised me because it felt so much longer – time stood still
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=40045