Month: May 2017

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Same deal as yesterday. started at taco bell rights. surfed really well- clean and crisp.Had a head high rocket right – halfway down the line a jabrone was about to drop in with a arrow longboard- i screamed – he panicked i dodged his word by moving to the nose of my board. he flipped to the left but his board came towards me on the right (i was still on the face somehow) I aborted the rest of the ride by diving IN FRONT of my board. narrow miss. headed to the dox after that…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=82491.

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Gina’s last day and unfortunately it was onshore overcast and looked like mush. Watching for a while however we could see some make-able sections by the dox. We bit the bullet and suited up along with Chuck. Turns out it surfed much better than it looked. Soon enough a bunch of other folk showed up. Must have seen us get those rides. Afterwards we pow-wowed on the beach and made plans for future surf trips
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=81572.

O

Location : O
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Same drill. Much smaller than all three days so we all paddled straight out to second peak. Again – clean with nice reforms on the inside. At one point – after AL had paddled back- we were sitting on our boards when a giant loud commotion with water splaying happened on the outside. I looked at Gina- other surfers kind of looked also- “maybe it was a shark?” What-evs. We kept surfing. No positive ID = no reason for a panic exit. Afterwards we went to AL shaping bay which was really cool to see how they make boards then we packed up the Felton house and headed back to SF. That night Tom played at MOR – we had a great re-cap to the SC surf adventure with music to boot.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=81448

O

Location : O
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Same drill. This time I paddled straight out to second peak. It was smaller – but clean. Gina and AL arrived thereafter from inside. We all had long rides that would re form – opening up to a new section. Once in a while an overhead would pop up- you could see it coming on the horizon. Later we went back to the house and cooked mistake mushroom and bacon scramble. afterwards we all went down to natural bridges – but the onshore winds were KILLER- maybe 25MPH – still we all had fun and then tom and dee left back for SF. me tina mike and gina went into SC- had some double ipa’s at a kooky wrist band wearing brewery called POUR. mike picked up some crafty CLARK shoes. that night we had prather ranch dogs on tortillas a pie ranch salad with strawberries and the leftover pie ranch beans…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=81334

O

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/3.0
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Gina and I had the drill down. Leave schmidt house by 630 am (other side of felton). Check out the Hook quickly and then over to 36th to park in front of Ashley’s who was already looking over the rail with a cup of coffee at 36th. I went out immediately . it was clean at 38th and a little smaller – but you could tell outside at second peak was breaking – and breaking much bigger. Had a frustrating first hour. Couldn’t really place myself. Kevin O. arrived – on his new andrini- Ashley nearby giving Gina pointers. Lots of Linda Mar folks drifted by J4, T3, K4. I made the decision to bite the bullet and paddle out to second peak. It was – of course- even bigger once you got out to the line up- big masses of water that swelled up and cast a shadow as they approached. I was surprised at the number of soft top jabronis in the line – up- barely able to sit upright. I lucked out on a left right away – pretty massive drop and a carve up to the top – then it fizzled out. Waited for quite a while until I found another one with juice- solid overhead and an endless face- barreled past T4 and he screamed “yeaAAAA” – it kept going- 316 yards almost 50 second of pure wave time. after that went back inside to get a 38th peeler. 3 hours and over 1000 calories – a new record. we all went back to the schmidt house and made potatoes and open faced steak sandwiches with the previous nights left overs. After brunch tina mike and gina went on a long hike – had of it was through the river – great fun – laughter sunshine food exercise
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=81154